Re-tiling is the middle ground between patch repairs and a full re-roof. You strip the existing tiles or slates, inspect and usually replace the underlay and battens, then re-lay new coverings to modern standards. The rafters stay. The basic roof structure stays. Everything above the rafters gets replaced.
For most Sussex homeowners, re-tiling is the right answer when the covering is failing but the structure underneath is still sound. It’s a bigger job than patch repairs but significantly cheaper than a full re-roof, and it upgrades an older roof to current BS 5534 standards – which on a pre-2014 roof is a meaningful improvement in storm resistance.
When Re-tiling Is the Right Answer
Re-tiling makes sense when:
- Multiple tiles or slates are failing but not catastrophically – you’re doing several small repairs a year
- The underlay is reaching end of life (usually 30-50 years for bitumen felt, longer for modern vapour-permeable membranes)
- Ridge and verge mortar is repeatedly failing despite being re-pointed
- The tile material has reached the end of its service life but the rafters are still sound
- The roof needs to be brought up to current BS 5534 fixing standards ahead of predictable storm damage
- The tile coating has weathered off (concrete tiles specifically) and the underlying tile is starting to erode
Re-tiling does not make sense when:
- The rafters themselves are damaged or undersized (full re-roof needed)
- The problem is localised (patch repairs are cheaper)
- The tiles are all fine but the ridge and flashings need work (specific repairs, not re-tiling)
- The roof is less than 15-20 years old (something specific has gone wrong – diagnose first, don’t just re-tile)
See signs it’s time to replace your pitched roof for the diagnostic side.
What the Re-tiling Process Actually Looks Like
Day 1: Scaffold and Strip
Scaffold goes up first thing. Once the roof is accessible, the old tiles come off, starting at the ridge and working down. On a typical detached Sussex house, stripping takes 1-2 days. On a terrace, slightly faster.
During stripping, the old lead flashings come off carefully – they’re sometimes worth keeping for re-use. Old tiles that are in good condition (particularly handmade clay) are also worth salvaging for patch repairs on nearby jobs or for sale.
Day 2-3: Structural Inspection
With the roof stripped to the rafters, every piece of the structure is visible for the first time in decades. The roofer checks:
- Rafter condition (rot, splits, sagging)
- Eaves and fascia timbers
- Chimney stacks and surrounding brickwork
- Dormer and velux openings
- Purlins and ridge boards
- Valley and hip structural timbers
Any structural issues get addressed before re-covering starts. Rotten fascia boards, replacement sprockets at the eaves, bracing for sagging purlins – all done now, with the roof open.
Day 3-4: New Underlay and Battens
Modern vapour-permeable underlay is laid across the whole roof, starting at the eaves and lapping upwards with 150mm minimum laps. The underlay dresses into the gutter via an eaves tray.
New battens – BS 5534 Class A or B, 38 x 25mm minimum, pressure-treated – are fixed across the rafters at the gauge specified by the new tile manufacturer. Gauge is tile-specific, so the exact batten spacing depends on what’s being laid on top.
Day 4-8: Re-laying the Covering
New tiles or slates are laid from the eaves up to the ridge. Every tile is mechanically fixed per BS 5534 (more on this below). Verge details are installed – dry verge systems are the default on new work.
At the end of this stage, the field of the roof is finished, leaving only the ridge, hips, and flashings.
Day 8-10: Ridge, Hips, Flashings, and Detailing
Ridge and hip tiles go on last. Modern dry ridge systems (no mortar needed) are the standard – faster, cleaner, and BS 5534-compliant without additional fixings. Mortar-bedded ridges are still an option but must be combined with mechanical clips or nails through each ridge tile into the ridge batten.
Lead flashings are re-dressed or replaced at chimneys, abutments, and valleys. Chases are raked out, flashing is chased in, wedged, and repointed.
Day 10-12: Final Check and Scaffold Down
A full inspection confirms every ridge is fixed, every flashing is secure, every valley has continuous underlay, and no debris is left in gutters or hopper heads. Scaffold comes down last.
Total time varies with roof size, complexity, and weather. A straightforward detached Sussex house is typically 8-12 days in good weather. Terraces are faster. Complex shapes with dormers, multiple valleys, or difficult chimneys take longer.
The BS 5534 Change – Why a 2024 Re-tile Is Different from a 1994 One
The single biggest change between a re-tile done today and one done 25-30 years ago is mechanical fixing.
Pre-2014, it was normal practice to:
- Mortar-bed the ridge and hip tiles only
- Clip or nail only exposed tile courses (perimeters, verges)
- Rely on mortar for verge detail
The 2014 update to BS 5534 changed all of that. On new work and re-tiles today:
- Every tile and every slate must be mechanically fixed – nailed, clipped, or both
- Dry ridge systems are the default (mortar-only ridges are not compliant)
- Dry verge systems replace mortar-only verges
- Fixing density varies by BS 5534 wind zone – Sussex is mostly Zone 2, exposed ridges and coastal positions are Zone 3
What this means in practice: a re-tile today produces a roof that’s significantly more storm-resistant than the pre-2014 original. Storms that took whole ridge sections off Sussex properties in the past (Eunice 2022, Ciaran 2023, Henk 2024) routinely damaged mortar-ridge roofs. Modern re-tiled roofs survive the same weather intact.
If your roof was originally built before 2014 and has mortar ridges, every named storm is a coin flip. A re-tile brings it to a standard where the coin stops spinning.
See BS 5534 explained for the technical detail.
Which Tile or Slate to Use on the Re-tile
A re-tile is a good opportunity to reconsider the material. But the options available depend on:
- The existing pitch – each material has a minimum pitch
- The existing structure – switching to a heavier material may require strengthening
- Conservation status – in Mid Sussex conservation areas and the High Weald AONB, the material choice may be constrained or fixed
- Budget and longevity priorities
Most re-tiles end up in the same material as the existing roof (like-for-like). Some re-tiles upgrade – commonly fibre cement slate upgraded to natural slate, or concrete tile upgraded to clay where the structure allows. Downgrades are rare and usually a false economy.
For the full decision process, see our Sussex tile and slate selection guide. For lifespan and value detail, see durable roofing materials.
Note: fibreglass (GRP) is not a pitched-roof covering. GRP is a flat-roof system. Some older posts describe “fibreglass tiles” – this is a misnomer. The lightweight slate-alternative is fibre cement slate, which is a different material entirely. See flat roof materials for GRP.
How Re-tiling Differs from Patch Repairs and Full Re-roofing
Patch Repairs
Fixing a handful of slipped or broken tiles, re-pointing a short section of ridge, or re-dressing a single lifted flashing. Half-day to one-day job. Extends roof life by 3-10 years depending on the overall condition.
See signs your pitched roof needs replacing.
Re-tiling
Strip and replace the covering, underlay, and battens. Rafters stay. 8-14 days. Extends roof life by 50-80 years depending on new material.
Full Re-roof
Everything above the ceiling joists comes off – including the rafters – and a new roof is built from scratch. Usually reserved for severely failed structures or major alterations (loft conversions, significant changes to roof shape). 3-5 weeks typical.
If a re-tile will not be enough, our roof replacement service takes the whole job on, from the survey and scaffold through to checking the timbers and re-covering.
Cost Framing
Every re-tile quote is different because every roof is different. Variables that affect price most:
- Roof area (m²)
- Pitch and access (scaffold cost)
- Material chosen (clay, concrete, slate, fibre cement slate)
- Condition of existing rafters and timbers
- Complexity – chimneys, dormers, valleys all add time
- BS 5534 wind zone (affects fixing spec)
What we always avoid in public content is specific £ per m² figures – they date quickly, vary significantly by property, and are more often misleading than useful. A proper quote against a specific tile and spec is the only comparable number.
Hiring a Professional vs DIY
Re-tiling is not a DIY job. The reasons:
- Working at height – Working at Height Regulations 2005 (enforced by HSE) require scaffold or proper fall protection
- BS 5534 compliance – fixing specifications depend on wind zone and tile product. Getting this wrong invalidates any manufacturer warranty.
- Weather risk – an exposed roof during installation is vulnerable to rain. Professional crews work in weather windows and protect with tarpaulins.
- Leadwork – flashing dressings at chimneys, valleys, and abutments require lead-dressing skills that take years to develop
A bad re-tile is worse than no re-tile. The roof looks finished but fails within 5-10 years from poor fixing, bad flashings, or wrong underlay detail. That’s 5-10 years of damage below before anyone knows.
For the full specification of a BS 5534-compliant install, see our pitched roof installation guide.
Choosing a Roofer for Your Re-tile
Any re-tile quote should include:
- Named tile or slate product (not “matching existing”)
- BS 5534 fixing spec for the wind zone
- Underlay specification
- Batten grading and size
- Lead code for flashings
- Dry ridge / dry verge systems specified
- Scaffold duration
- Waste disposal
- Clear written warranty
NFRC accreditation is a reasonable baseline. Cornerstone Roofing is NFRC-accredited and a UK Roofing Awards 2025 finalist. That accreditation matters most in the rare event the firm is not around to honour its workmanship warranty – the NFRC scheme provides backup cover.
Book a Survey
If you’re weighing a re-tile against patch repairs or a full re-roof, the starting point is an honest survey. We’ll look at the existing roof, identify what’s failing and what’s sound, and give you a straight recommendation on which option makes most sense for your property.